Potato 2.0

<a href="http://www.myfoxaustin.com/dpp/good_day/021110-The-Great-Outdoors%3A-Plant-Your-Potatoes">Here's the link to the Fox7 spot we recorded on February 11th.</a> Last year's potato article can be found <a href ="http://www.gonursery.com/pdf/You_Say_PotatoWeb.pdf">here.</a> Just copy the links above and paste into your web browser to access these links. Thanks and happy gardening!! Revisit some potato planting info.

2010-02-12T00:00:00Z

Here's a quick link to last years potato planting guide and a link to my Fox7 spot on potatoes that aired recently. Potato 2.0

2010-02-22T14:58:14Z

Great Outdoors is in love. In love with blooming gifts! We have a great selection of plants, just in, for Valentine's Day. Sure, we all think of roses when Valentine's Day rolls around. But just think of this. They are already dead when you buy them. And due to the volume that has to be available this time of year, quality is always an issue. Then there's the price. Where did all those $10 a dozen deals go? Want to do something different this Valentine's Day? Try giving a living plant as a present. We have just gotten in a very fresh and BEAUTIFUL shipment of orchids, bromeliads, and anthuriums. All are blooming and will last for weeks, not days. Best of all, with proper care, they will continue to live and give for years to come. Come on down to the nursery and we'll be glad to show you what we've got and get just the right plant to tell that certain someone how you feel. Give a gift that lasts.

2010-02-09T00:00:00Z

A living plant will last much longer than cut flowers. Plus they will bloom again in the future. All for a cost similar to what you will pay for roses this week. Valentine's Day is near!!

2010-02-09T04:04:24Z

To many, February is just part of the count down to mid-March gardening madness; a time to prep beds and decide which heirloom tomatoes to try growing this year. The list of veggies to be planted in February is long, including a few that you may not of thought to plant. February marks the last round for cool weather crops; broccoli, cauliflower, lettuce, spinach, kale, swiss chard, mustard, beets, and carrots. It is also when you plant peas, potatoes, onions, asparagus, and horseradish. The Great Outdoors is well stocked in all of the above. This is also the time of year when seed sales jump and we start to reorder weekly. Many gardening newbies are scared of starting from seed. I noticed this last year when I tried to talk customers out of buying starter pots of green beans and grab a packet of seeds instead. The bean packets contain about 20 seeds and cost a little less than the single bean starter plant. Most vegetable seeds can be sown directly in the ground and do not take more than a week to germinate (sprout). You just need to make sure the top layer of soil does not get too dry since the young seedling do not have deep roots yet. But keeping the ground to moist will cause the seedling to rot. Growing vegetables from seed is not only cheaper but you also have more variety to choose from. And we have variety. Next time you are at the Great Outdoors check out our seed selection in the gift shop were we have nine seed racks. We carry Wildseed Farms which is from Fredericksburg, providing wildflowers for our area. There are two racks of Thompson & Morgan seeds. Their exotic line has seeds for papayas, pomegranates, and passion vine. The other rack holds seeds for micro greens and sprouting and varieties that are perfect for growing in containers. Last year I bought a package of cucumber seeds from Thompson & Morgan it cost 3.99 and contained four seeds, but the cucumbers were fantastic and I've already bought a pack for this year. At a dollar a cucumber seed that is still cheaper than a 4" starter plant at $1.39. If you want a real bang for your buck check out Livingston Seeds, they sell old time favorites at a cheap price and they are not skimpy with the seeds. Botanical interest is our best selling line. It fills up three racks, one has flowers and herbs. The second rack has jumbo packs, this is where you will find specialty mixes like plants to attract hummingbirds and flowers for cutting gardens. Their third rack contains vegetables, if you look at the upper right hand corner of their packs half of them are stamped certified organic. If you are looking for solely organic seeds go to the Seeds of Change rack all their seeds are organic. Besides flowers and vegetables they also carry seeds for medicinal plants like mugwort, rue, St John's wort, and some I've never heard of, i.e. Ashwaganda and Quillquina. Our newest arrival is Seed Savers, specializing in rare heirlooms. This is the rack were you will find something different, jelly melons, sunberries, white beets, purple peas, and browned skinned cucumbers to name a few. If this your first time starting from seed some of the easiest to try for February are radishes, peas, spinach, beets, dill, and nasturtiums, which have edible leaves and flowers. By mid-March once freezing nights are behind us try beans, cucumbers, melons, basil, and summer squashes like zucchini, yellow, and patty pan. But be careful, it is easy to become a seed junky. I have room in my garden for four melons but I have 13 seed packets. The cure? Find a fellow gardener to swap seeds with. Finally, if you don't see a seed for something you want to grow, please let us know and we will see if we can get them in for you. TGO has a great selection

2010-01-30T00:00:00Z

TGO has just added Seed Savers to our extensive line of seeds. We now offer seed from six different sources, with virtually no overlap from company to company. Sow some seeds!

2010-01-30T23:10:59Z

We've been pretty lucky for the last couple of winters here in Austin. We haven't had a truly "hard" freeze, especially here in town. Well, that all going to change tomorrow and later this week. Lows in the teens are forecast, even in town. Here are a few things you can do to try and mitigate the damage that may occur. You may notice I said mitigate. You are going to get freeze damage on some of your plants. It is almost unavoidable. For most of our native plants, it is just a part of the cycle of life. Consider it nature's way of pruning back. Yes, you may lose a plant or two (or several in my case, I've got a thing for those darn tropicals). But we will also be "losing" lots of mosquitoes, fleas, and other pests that have done so well with the relatively mild winters of the last couple of years. If you have read this far, it tells me that your are really concerned and yes, you should protect your plants. Our unwritten policy here at the nursery ;if someone calls to ask if they should protect, then they should. Mulch- a thick layer of mulch is the best way to protect the roots of a plant. 4"-6" is not too much and could be the difference between life and death for tender perennials and sub-tropicals. Yes, the top may freeze, but the roots will hopefully survive and regrow this spring. Be sure to mark your calender to remove the excess mulch in early March so plants can "break through". Cover- this will be moderately successful in the teens, but sometimes it's the best we can do. Covering a plant, as best you can, will help to reduce burn from frost, ice, and very cold wind. This can get difficult on larger plants however. Sometimes you can only cover the bulk of the plant, with some longer growths having to tough it out outside the wrap. DO NOT cover with plastic only. It can actually make matters worse. A thin, woven material such as N-Sulate, burlap, or an old sheet is best. Plastic can be put over the cloth, but be sure there is a layer of cloth between the plant and the plastic. If plastic is used, be sure to remove it as soon as temps go back up. Otherwise, plants may be "baked" in the wrap. Heat- This is another tricky one. The best way to add supplemental heat to a plant is through the use of small strings of Christmas lights. These little guys produce a low level of heat in numerous areas and can be wrapped around the trunks or hearts of plant to increase temps. A low level, single light bulb can also be somewhat useful, but be careful not to burn or start a fire with too high a wattage or by having it too close to the plant. Here is one of the only place where going green is no good. Compact florescent bulbs and LED Christmas light produce little to no heat and won't help. Acceptance- You are going to lose a plant or two (maybe more). "The best laid plans or mice and men..." as they say. Just keep in mind that many plants will be frozen to the ground and go dormant. I don't give up on a plant until it is mid-March (even later for some, like Pride of Barbados, Firebush, or Esparanza) and no signs of life have emerged. Yes, we hate to lose a plant, but look at it as an opportunity to try something new next spring and change the garden up a bit. It is also a great opportunity to report what happened at websites like Dave's Garden, where survived freeze levels are noted. So good luck over the next few nights. While plants are important to us, be sure to protect your pets, pipes, and elderly or incapable neighbors, and yourself first. And if you do lose a bunch of plants, I know a great place to get new ones next spring!!! A few tips to help

2010-01-06T00:00:00Z

Here are a few tips to try and mitigate damage from the hard freeze coming. Extreme Freeze is Coming

2010-01-06T16:41:28Z

Starting Seeds Well, the dark days of winter are upon us and the garden is probably looking a little bleak. We are all basking in the few hours of sunlight we are getting, like lizards trying to energize for the day. While there isn’t a lot to do in the garden right now, you can start thinking about what to plant for spring and it’s almost time to start your seeds indoors for transplanting in spring. Here are a few tips and tricks to help you be more successful. #1 Get Fresh Seeds- TGO carries a number of different seed lines and tries to offer Austin’s best seed selection. A little research before hand is a great thing. Don’t buy a paste tomato if you want a slicing fruit, etc… Sometimes a large selection is a great thing, sometimes it’s a bit overwhelming. #2 Get a Seed Starting Mix- Garden soil is not a good choice, as it compacts too easily and can harbor organisms that cause diseases. A commercially prepared seed starting mix is recommended. Avoid mixes that have a high fertilizer content, as this causes more problems than good. TGO carries a couple of special seed starting mixes, plus our own TGO brand of potting soil is coir based, and coir is an excellent medium for seed starting. Combine the seed starting mix thoroughly with warm water to bring it to a useable state. This may take quite a lot of mixing, as completely dry mixes can be difficult to wet. Sometimes it's best to let the moistened mix sit overnight to be sure that it is evenly wet. The final mix should be damp like a wrung-out sponge, not soaked or soggy. #3 Select Some Containers- Tomato seeds will germinate in anything as long as the seeds get moisture and warmth. After germination and initial growth, the seedlings need to be potted up to larger containers. Containers must be able to drain excess water. If using old or previously used containers, its best to sterilize them with a 10% bleach solution. Your choice of containers for potting up depends on the number of plants you desire. Professional nurseries use growing "flats" with various-sized plastic cell inserts. Many sizes and kinds of flats are commercially available to the home grower, but they are not essential. TGO has these and other options for sale in our tool room. #4 Determine When to Start- Many novices fail at starting tomatoes simply because they start too early. Given the proper care, full-sized tomato transplants can be grown in 6 to 8 weeks. Before planting seeds, you must determine when your plants can be safely placed into the garden. Planting outdoors is best done about 1 or 2 weeks after the average last frost date, which is March 15th for Austin. Many people will place plants out earlier, but one good freeze and any lack of protection will kill a young plant easily. #5 Plant Your Seeds- Fill a small container with damp seed starting mix. Plant your seeds about 1/8 inch (3 mm) deep. Firm the mix lightly to ensure that the seed is in direct contact with the moist mix. The seed needs to absorb moisture during the germination process. You can plant lots of seeds close together because the resulting seedlings will be moved to larger containers after germination (when the first true leaves appear). It is a good idea to provide some sort of covering over your germination containers to preserve moisture. You can place the container in a plastic bag or cover it with a sheet of plastic. Allow for some air to circulate but don't let the mix dry out. Dry seeds will not germinate. #6 Patiently Wait for Germination- Place the germination container in a warm location out of direct sunlight. Light is not needed during the germination process, but will not be harmful as long as high temperatures are avoided. Special heat mats for seed germination are available at TGO and really help get seeds going quickly. This may the best tip you can take away from this article. Tomato seeds usually germinate within 5 to 10 days when kept in the optimum temperature range of 70 to 80F (21 to 27C). Germination is delayed by lower temperatures and accelerated by higher temperatures. Temperatures below 50F (10C) or above 95F (35C) are detrimental to germination. Other plants may be a little slower or faster to germinate, but a week or two is nearly universal. Keep a close eye on the first seedlings, as they need to be moved into bright light as soon as they emerge from the soil. They will explosively reach for light, and if the light is not adequate, you will get 3-inch-long (8 cm long) stems shortly after germination - this is very undesirable. If this occurs, you could try to transplant to a deeper container, or you may want to start over. #7 Put the Seedlings under Light- Very strong light is needed to support tomato growth. A heated greenhouse is the ultimate location to continue growing your seedlings. A second choice would be a cold frame (possibly with supplemental heat for cool nights). Many home growers use inexpensive fluorescent shop lights. The “Jump Start” light system we sell at TGO is a great solution if a good window is not available. A south-facing windowsill can work but usually presents more problems than the fluorescent shop light setup. If fluorescent shop lights are used, the leaves of the plants must be within inches of the bulbs. Use your own creativity to make a setup that gets the plants directly under the bulbs. The lights should remain on for 16 to 18 hours per day. #8 Monitor the Plants as They Grow On- Tomato seedlings grow best at a temperature of about 65F (18C) with some air circulation and lots of light. When watering, most growers soak the mix and then let it get nearly dry before providing more water. When the plants develop their first true leaves, they should be transplanted into larger individual containers. The plants actually benefit from this re-potting step, as it helps them develop a strong root system. The plants may be set deeply into their new containers to shorten the height of the seedling (tomatoes only). Most commercial seed starting mixtures have a small amount of fertilizer that will support small seedlings for some time. Depending on the components of your starting mix, you may need to begin fertilizing. If you do fertilize, do it very, very sparingly with a weak dilution. Depending on the size of your containers and your growing conditions, you may need to pot up a second or third time to prevent your plants from becoming rootbound. The plants require good lighting to continue to grow well. Place the plants where they get plenty of sunlight, and if that is not possible or adequate, use fluorescent fixtures, or specialized high-intensity grow lamps, or use a combination of natural and artificial lighting. Keeping large tomato plants indoors, under artifical lighting, can be quite difficult. To avoid problems, don't start too early. The best solution to the lighting dilemma is to plan your seed starting date so that the transplants reach a reasonable size along with the arrival of suitable outdoor temperatures. #9 Harden Off your Transplants- Introduce the plants to outdoor conditions slowly. This is called "hardening off". If it is not done slowly your plants may be shocked and their growth may temporarily cease. The longer the plants remains indoors, the harder it will be to acclimate them to the outdoors. Avoid full sun and wind when you first move them outside. Cold frames can be used to harden off the plants. The covers can remain in place on inclement days and removed on moderate days. Temporary structures can be built from plastic sheeting. Buildings and fences can be used to provide sun and wind protection while the plants adapt to outside conditions. If really cold weather is forecast <40F (4C), it is best to bring the plants back inside. Freezing temperatures will destroy your plants (and it happens fast). After the transplants are hardened off, they can be planted to their final outdoor growing locations either in the garden or in large growing containers. Most agree that any early blossoms should be plucked off prior to transplanting. Others leave the early blossoms in place, especially if the transplant is strong, healthy, and not rootbound. Common Problems Leggy Seedlings- The plants can become "leggy," the stems being elongated and limp, and the foliage sparse. Leggy seedlings usually occur due to insufficient lighting, too much heat, or too much fertilizer. Suggested remedies, short of starting over, are to repot the plants deeper as described earlier in Step #8 (tomatoes only) , and to use a fan to improve air circulation and keep temperatures moderated, resulting in stockier and stronger plants. Damping Off- Characterized by lack of germination (pre-emergent) or causes narrowing of the newly emerged stems at the soil line and the tiny seedlings then flop over and die (post-emergent). Various fungi are responsible for the condition and they are found in high concentrations in any mix with real soil. That's why it's best to use the artificial seed starting mixes mentioned in step #2. Also, it's very important to be sure that plastic domes or baggies on your containers are not airtight. If these precautions are observed, it is unlikely that you will experience damping off. Slow Growth- When seedlings refuse to grow it is usually because the temperature is too low or the nutrient level is insufficient. Stuck Leaves- Sometimes the cotyledons (the first leaves formed from the seed) have trouble getting loose from the seed coating. Be patient, as the leaves will usually escape. You could wet the seed coating, or you could try to carefully pinch off the seed coat, but if you pinch off the cotyledons, the seedling will likely die. A simple way to wet the seedlings is with a spray bottle of water set to mist. A small drop of saliva is also very effective at loosening seedcoats. Over-watering- Many growers fail with tomato plants because they over-water. Soggy soil will cause seed to rot. Once the seedlings are growing, they should be watered thoroughly then left un-watered until they are almost ready to wilt. Over-fertilizing- Overfertilizing can cause seedlings to die, to stop growing, or to grow rapidly into spindly plants. One or at most 2 applications of very dilute fertilizer are adequate to get a seedling through to transplant size. Info for this article taken from the web, garden books, and consulting with TGO staff. Tips for getting a head start

2009-12-21T00:00:00Z

Learn the ins and outs of starting seeds indoors to have great transplants ready for early spring. Seed Starting Indoors

2009-12-21T18:02:26Z

Fall / winter is the time to plant temperate fruit trees and we’ve got a great selection right now. We do a great deal of research to get varieties that will work well here in central Texas with little maintenance. So, let’s take a quick look at these fruit trees and cover a few basics you’ll need to know before planting. First, a temperate fruit tree is a tree that will do fine outdoors, in the ground, in our weather conditions. The alternative would be tropical and sub-tropical fruit trees, like avocado, mango, and even citrus. These trees can be damaged or even killed by hard winter freezes, depending on the variety. The rule of thumb here in central Texas for temperate trees is the “P” fruits: peaches, pears, plums, persimmons, pomegranate, and phig (OK, so it’s really fig, but I needed it to work). We are also trying a few types of apples this year, although reports of their success seem to be mixed. Second, be sure you have the room and conditions necessary to grow a fruit tree. While I encourage pruning trees to a size that is “reachable” for you, they will still need at least 8’-10’ of space away from a building or other trees and AT LEAST 5 hours of direct sun for good production. Full sun all day is fine for all these trees and will lead to better production. Next, it’s time to choose a tree. Now, I have listed several types of fruit above, but all peaches (or pears, or plums, etc…) are not created equally. Many of the temperate fruits require a certain number of chill hours to produce fruit. Chill hours are the number of hours below 45 degrees between October and February. We strive to carry only low chill hour fruits, as we can often have very mild winters and hence, few chill hours. Even with the attempts we make, some winters are just too mild for good production. The Austin area averages about 700 chill hours a winter, but this can be extremely variable. All the good, independent garden centers in town do their research. Box stores likely do not. Last, here are a few other tidbits of info you will need to know when choosing a fruit tree. All fruit trees will produce best if they have a cross-pollinator nearby, but some varieties require it. Peach, pomegranate, fig, persimmon, and some plums can be self-fruitful. Pears, apples, and most plums need another tree nearby to produce a good crop. This means room for not one, but two trees. Also, be sure to look at the characteristics of the specific variety you are looking at. Do you want a freestone or clingstone peach? Do you plan on cooking with your pears or eating them fresh? Do you prefer an astringent or non-astringent persimmon? One of our plant consultants will be glad to help you answer these questions and find the variety that is best for you. So, plant a fruit tree or two this winter and be rewarded with a bumper crop of fresh fruit for years to follow. It's time to plant temperate fruit trees, and we've go them.

2009-12-03T00:00:00Z

A few basics to help you make the decision on whether or not to plant a fruit tree and which one to choose. Fruit trees for Austin

2009-12-03T22:30:23Z

The Garden Guide for Austin and the surrounding vicinity has now hit the stands with it's 4th edition. This guide is a 12 month guide to gardening in our area. It covers a plethera of information and makes use of each and every tid bit that could be gleaned from gardening in Austin. This guide even allows some space for you to take notes monthly. You can use the guide for just about everything pertaining to your landscape. It is full of charts, "to do" lists and calendars arranged for planting schedules. This edition if fresh off the press and has been updated. If you are a local gardener or even know one this is a key tool to have at your finger tips. The guide helps you be aware of when, why and what to prune along with disease and insect treatment and trouble shooting. I have been in Austin for 18 years and I still refer to this manual when I have any doubts or questions. Even if you are not an avid reader just having this as a resource to fallback on is well worth it. The cost of this edition is still the same as it was at $14.95. I know many Austin gardeners who would covet this guide if it showed up as a present on their lap! Even if you don't have a yard or landscape the information in this guide is even handy for a patio or courtyard gardener. Consider sneeking a peek at our display copy the next time you visit the Nursery, its located at the register area or in our gift shop. I bet you will find some information that you can apply immediately so give it a gander! Supported by the Travis County Master Gardeners Association

2009-11-08T00:00:00Z

A harvest of gardening facts, tips and lists specifically for the Central Texas Area Garden Guide for the Austin Vicinity 4th Edition is here!!!

2009-11-08T21:36:58Z

Nothing marks the beginning of spring like the emergence of the wildflowers. Reds. oranges, yellows, and of course the good ‘ol blue bonnet. As soon as the blooming starts, we are flooded with folks wanting that grand display in their yard. Unfortunately, it’s too late to plant when you are seeing the blooms. Fall is the planting season for wildflowers and this should give you the info you need for a good crop. First, choosing a good location for your wildflowers is important. They will need to get AT LEAST 4-5 hours of sun. The more the better. Also, be sure to choose a location where the plants can be allowed to grow and get to blooming size. I would love to have wildflowers all over my lawn, but certain areas need to be mowed regularly and therefore are not good spots for wildflowers. And don’t choose an area with too good a soil profile. Wildflowers seem to perform best in poor soil. Highly amended soil may actually lead to poor wildflower production. Also, be sure you do not use corn gluten or other pre-emergent in the area, as it will prevent the wildflower seeds from sprouting as well. Second, prepare the area for planting. This is pretty easy to do. Just scalp the area with your lawn mower. Now normally we would never recommend you scalp your lawn, but this is the best way to get ready for the wildflowers. You may need to make a couple of passes to get the grass (or weeds or whatever) as low as possible. Also, be sure to carefully check the area for rocks and sticks that may normally get mowed over on a higher mowing. Mulching the cut material back in is always recommended. Next, choose your seed. To start, if you have never done wildflowers, I might recommend starting with a mix. Different plants do better or worse, depending on the exact composition of your soil, light, water, etc… By starting with a mix, you can see what really thrives and what just doesn’t work. For me, bluebonnets are elusive to say the least. After 3 different plantings, I have finally given up on them. Poppies and Indian Blanket however, thrive in my area and subsequent plantings have lead to a sea of red and orange from early spring through summer. If you don’t see great results in the first year, don’t give up. Many of our native wildflowers have very tough seeds that are somewhat hard to germinate their first year. This is a defense mechanism to protect the long term life of the plant. In years of bad drought, fire, or other harsh circumstances, some seed “rests” and come germinate the following year. Hopefully, by then, conditions are better. Finally, spread the seed. This can be a fun event for the whole family. Be sure and read your package to see how much area the seed you have is supposed to cover. Putting ¼ pound of seed in a 100 square foot area may sound great, but it is too thick. Conversely, a 2 gram packet, spread over 200 square feet, will have little impact. Some seed is very small. Mixing the seed with sand or compost is a good way to avoid accidentally dropping too much seed in one spot. Be sure to mix thoroughly. Spread the mixture over the desired area and spray down lightly with a hose to ensure seed reaches the soil. Don’t spray too heavily and don’t spread seed before a torrential downpour. This could actually wash the seed away. Now your work is pretty well done. Hopefully, we will get adequate rainfall to allow the seed to germinate and grow. Small plants will form fairly quickly and sit in a “dormant” state most of the winter. As soon as it warms in spring, plants will grow rapidly and begin to bloom. Usually late February through April, depending on species. If we do not get rain, an occasional watering will be helpful to ensure success. Plants may bloom for quite some time and can start to look a little “ragged” after a while. You can eventually mow them down, but it is important to allow them to finish blooming and produce seed for the next years crop. This is why the middle of the front yard is not usually the best spot for wild flowers. If you are not sure, check the spent blooms. Most will easily release their seed if it is ripe and ready. Now you can mow the area as usual for the rest of the summer and fall. Best to stop mowing mid to late October for the next years crop. Make Lady Bird proud and spread some wildflower seeds in your yard! They will reward you with blooms, bees, and all the joy of spring. Put out seed NOW for a spring show.

2009-10-15T00:00:00Z

While the flowers won;t come until spring, now is the time to put out wildflower seeds. Read on to find out how. It's time to plant wildflowers!!

2009-10-15T17:47:39Z